Rio

Overlooking Rio on our way down from Sugarloaf Hill

Looking towards Corcavardo from Sugarloaf

Lucy, me and Christ

Your fish was how big?

When my baby smiles at me....

Overlooking the harbour of Rio

Lucy on the Party Boat sailing around Isla Grande

Lucy and Hayley, all swimmed out

Relaxing in the park with some shimaho (l to r: Gabi, Joh, Segala and Hayley)

Going with the flow

So, here are some pictures to accompany the stories and tales I have been relaying. As you can see, there was about 14 of us from the wedding that then went on to Bonito to basically having a cool time checking out nature.

All the people on our trip had been in AIESEC in some form, most had been on the Brazillian MC. Apart from all the Brazillians, we had Vitalli from the Ukraine, Verena from Switzerland, Dean from the UK and Lucy and I from Australia.

Landscape of Bonito

The river we floated down

Me in the river

The gang all kitted up (l to r: Segala, Mogana, Vitalli, random dude, Rafita, Verena, Dean and yours truly)

Good Times

Enjoying the waterfalls in Bonito

Walking through the forrest

Everybody in the tour bus

Beer and maiorca in Campo Grande (l to r: Rafita, Vitalli, Lucy, Marcio and Hayley)

On to Bonito

Visiting the cave with the blue water in Bonito with the crew

Enjoying one of the many waterfalls and swimming areas on our walk though a national park in Bonito

AIESEC Brazil, well a lot of them anyway (l to r: Ferava, Lucy, Rafita, Joh, Danile (groom) Andrea (Bride), Marcello, Mogana, Segula, ..., Marcio)

Lucy and Gabi looking glamourous

Wedding in Campo Grande

Andrea and her dad Pedro walking to the alter

Hayley, Lucy and V all galmmed up for the wedding

Lucy eating her birthday chocolate (Vitalli and Andrea in the background)

Marcio and Hayley

How much relaxation is too much relaxation?

Our 3 days in Bonito was just what the doctor ordered!

On tuesday after a liesurly breakfast we drove to a nature reserve with a river that was fed by springs and I know this sounds kinda crazy, but we got kitted up in wet suits and goggles and literally just floated down the river for 2 hours. There was a nice current that took us all the way. We could just float and observe the river floor and all its inhabitants or roll over onto our backs and watch the out of water scenery! Now because this place was super protected we had to wash off all soaps, sunscreens, etc before we got in the water. As a result we all ended up with back of leg and calf tans as we were all floating on our stomaches and it was the only bit not covered by wetsuits.

Again, lunch was buffet, but today I had actually worked up and appitite and then we essentially spend the afternoon lazying in hammocks, reading, swimming, etc.

That night we went to a local restaurant that served all type of native Brazillian animals including fish, caiman and some sort of wild boar thing. We concluded the evening with self serve ice cream, with well over 60 varieties to choose from, and most made from local native fruits (which I have never herd of and don´t know an english translation)

Wednesday we got up super early to go on a walk though a cave. We walked into the depths of this cave that had pure blue water at the bottom. We then checked out of our hostel and went to a local part where we had lunch, swam in the crystal clear waters, slepts, drank and just relaxed.

We then drove back to Bonito and hung out in the airport until our flights at 3am. I am now in Rio with Lucy and it looks like there is plenty to do!

New Hair and New Legs

I met Lucy with a big hug in the Santiago airport. We then proceeded to spent the rest of the day in airports trying to getto our destination. We finally arrived in Campo Grande at midnight, only to find out Lucy had not actually made reservations for that night.... however there was a hotel next door!

On Friday we got to explore Campo Grande (Brazil) a little bit. For lunch we had my first Brazilian buffet lunch and it was awesome. They have all manner of bean, meat, rice and salad dishes, you load your plate with as much as you want and you pay based on the weight of your plate. I really enjoyed the bean dishes! And there was so much variety I could only take a little bit of everything. Friday we also spent at least 4 hours in a salon.... I know, crazy! I got a hair cut and colour (new hair) full leg wax (new legs) and a manicure and pedicure!!! All for 105 in Brazillian money! That evening we went out for dinner and some drinks with friends of Lucy's that she used to live with in Brazil.

Brazil thus far reminds me of Darwin. A similar type of climate, landscape and lots of outdoor living/ bars and restaurants! We later me the bride, groom and their families at the local fate (markets) It was also Lucy's birthday today, so lots of singing and sweet stuff! Saturday, there was a lunch for the wedding guests, again at a pay what is weighs buffet restaurant (These things are dangerous, but so good) and the waiters were dressed as cowboys, chaps and all! We then proceeded to spend another considerabl amount of time at the salon! After an afternoon nap, we got dressed and headed to the church for the ceremony. There wasn't much difference in a Brazillian wedding. They did have about 8 couples in the bridal party, but they weren't all in matching clothes, basically they wore what ever they wanted!! The reception was essentially a dance party, that only stopped once for a quick speach to welcome everyone! Food was served buffet style and basically the brides parents kept coming around to ask why you weren't dancing. Unfortunatley no Brazillian men asked me to dance!

We concluded at 3am because we had to leave the next day at 8am. So on Sunday we took a bus to Bonito. When I was awake during the journey, the landscape made me feel like I was back in Darwin, it even had red dirt, muddy rivers and cattle farms! No pandanus though! We went for a guided tour of a nature reserve where we visited and swam in about 5 waterfalls. It was glorious (and also involved a buffet lunch) and so nice to cool off after a long and hot bus drive! We are in Bonito for another 1.5 days where we will do some more tours, swimming, drinking and of course eating!

Where in the world is Hayley

So, the gastrinomical tour of Chile continues.... I had a glorious steak with merlot marinated potatos, tempured red onion rings and a blue cheese sauce at a neat little restaurant not far from the hostel, with 2 english girls for Friday lunch. It then started to piss down as I got on the winery tour with my two new irish friends. We were going to Conch y Toro one of Chile's oldest and most faous wineries. The tour was pitiful, espeically after having so many great winery tours in Australia, but I got to wander their nice gardens.... I also found it quite interesting that the wines they produce are the ones we would drink in Mongolia!!!

On saturday I took a bus to Valparaiso, a beach town 2 hours from Santiago. I could smell a beautiful sea breeze as I approached my hostel, the sun was out, and Valparaiso looked like the Chile I was expecting, a bit more grity, rustic and interesting! My carefree views of Valparaiso were short llived as after lunch during my stroll through the old quarter I was mugged by 3 guys.... I'm not hurt or anything, they made off with my bag, etc. but it has scared the living be=jesus out of me and I feel like because of that incident I have lost my independance to travel alone! But a lady that herd me screeming took me inside, calmed me down and called the police. The police were also really nice, which helped!!! Back at the hostel I met an Australian girl who I could debrief with (thank god) who had also been a AusAID volunteer, in Mozambique. Her stories made me feel I was lucky I only got mugged!

We ended up going to meet a local who showed us around the city and took us to a good seafood restaurant where I had "catch of the day" a broth filled with muscles big, small and smoked, prawns and some other crustaceon we don't know what! It was delicious! My friend jackie had the seafood version of Chorilla, so basically my dish on a bed of chips and onion... all washed down with pisco sour.

Sunday I went to Viña de Mar, the posh end of town to try and relax in what was deemed a safe and nice part of town! But really I couldn't wait to get out of Valparaiso and back to Santiago. That day I also lost $10USD as one of the guys at the hostel suggested I have some secret money in my shoe to give to robbers, but is some how got out of my sock and out of my shoe! And to top it off I had an ice cold shower that night at the hostel ;( (do you know how comforting hot showers are?) I got a bus this morning and made it back in time to have lunch with a new friend Boris, a local of Santiago.

I have been using the couchsurfing.com website. It is basically a networking site for travelers, if you have a free bed you would like to offer a traveller or would like to meet people for coffee and show then some of the sites, then you put your profile on there. The first girl I met on there was Paula, and she's the one who took me for a night on the town eating and drinking in Santiago. The local I met in Valapraiso was Khris, again a couchsurfer. Boris was also a couch surfer. He took me to lunch in Bellavista, which was 3 courses, golrious, cheap and with a free pisco sour.. then we went for ice cream and a walk in the park. Then this afternoon I met another couchsurfer, Luis from Columbia, we had some beers, had a chat and we are going to do some sightseeing tomorrow. So I am feeling a lot better! Other points of note, the Chiliens are an 'affectionate' lot. Every park you go into there are coupled embraced, on the benches, on the lawns, on the statues.... literally in the park I was in today there was a couple being amourous with each other a 4m intervals!!! And, Chilien people are lovely, I've had ladies walk me to bus stations and look out for me on metros because I obviously look like a foreinger, on numerous occasions!!! So, I'm super excited about seein Lucy on Thursday as we make our way to a Brazillian wedding!!!

Santiago Food and Drink

A completos, Chiliean hot dog with the lot including what tastes like coleslaw, sourkraut, salsa and lots of mayo. There are always 3 bottles on the tables in Chiliean cafes, red=ketchup, yellow=mustard and green=peppers/ chilli

Paula getting into the spirit of Karaoke


Hayley and Riccardo grooving to "I am the Walrus"

Riccardo and Hayley enjoying terremato (earthquakes). It is sweet white wine with another grape liquor and then a big wad of pinneapple sorbet (which looks like marshmellow).

Paula enjoying her "earthquake"

Overlooking Santiago

View of the city from Santa Lucia, a huge labyrinth of a park right in the middle of the city.

Farewell Dinner at Pee Wees

You Can Be My American Boy

Whilst in Olgii (western Mongolia) we met 3 smelly (had literally not washed in weeks) American boys, who we ended up hanging out with for the whole time we were in Olgii. They were buying motorbikes so they could travel across Mongolia at their own pace. They said they would come and visit us in UB and we have been patiently waiting for that day. Their 6:30am arrival in UB (to avoid cops as they had unregistered bikes) turned into a 10:30 arrival, but that didn’t seem to matter after the big breakfast we cooked and the hot showers (a condition of them staying with us was that they had to shower every day) Their first night in UB they cooked us dinner. Chili Cheese Fries and Bacon-Blue Burgers. Who would have thought blue cheese on a burger would be so awesome. The rest of the time they were with us was spent eating, essentially. They were so happy to have access to fruit and vegetables.

Mark, Hayley and Tyler

Enjoying American Food: (l to r) Carl, Billy, Tyler, Mark and Steph

Pre-wash: the boys before they got in the shower

Post wash: As you can see Tyler doesn't look much different after a wash apart form the fact he now has some lovely nail art!

Family Snaps

A family that plays together: Hayley, Steph, J-Dog and Tam

On my last day in Mongolia, the family got together for what I consider, I very important portrait, us in Mongolian costume. Please note my curved pigtails (don't laugh, Mongolian women actually used to wear their hair like this) and Steph's cut outs in her gown.

We were all impressed with our blemish free skin in the photo (Mongolians will use photoshop on everything, even your passport photos!)

'Til death do us part....

Steph and I finally got to live one of our Mongolian dreams, photo shoot in wedding gowns!!! The Mongolians are known for having bride and groom photo shoots before the wedding day, so they can give guests photos at the wedding or use them as invites. And if you don't already have a wedding dress, no drama, they can easily photo shop your face onto a bride and groom picture (don't laugh, we saw this many a time). We however opted for choosing the most hideous gowns they had on offer in the studio!

The circle of life

As I mentioned, I had not been out to this part of the world for a while, and it had completely changed in my absence. Gone were all remnants of a desolate wintry landscape in place was a landscape alive with birds, bugs and horses that "flew" rather than galloped! It was magical!

The landscape looks totally different than when I first came here. Check out the frozen river that I swam in last weekend!

I have chased sheep across this landscape, snow covered!

Last time I came, this area was just beginning to bloom, now there are more flowers and variety of grasses than you can point a stick at.

All the baby goats and sheep have grown up!

What more can I say, Wow!

Me, after having a dip (an a little bit of a swim until the cold hurt too much) in a river I have previously walked and skated on.

Mmmm Brekkie

We ended an adventurous Saturday with lots of singing, vodka and general good times. The next morning we were very appreciative of a cooked breakfast including french press coffee. Here we have toast master Jocelyn, using a pitch fork to toast four pieces of bread at once.

Everyone gets in on the toast making business

Camp Fire Stew, Mongolian Style

I love a good camp fire stew, and the Mongolians do a particularly good job with it. Their dish is call khor-khogd and it is AMAZING. Below is instruction on how it is carried out.


1. Put your apple sized, but slightly flat river stones into the fire for a good 2 hours (its okay, Mongolian river stones have some special composition which means they don't explode when they get super hot

2. Put a layer of your chosen meat (well, its only ever going to be mutton in Mongolia) in a big pot

3. Put a layer of red hot stones in.

Repeat steps 2 and 3 until all stones and meat are used up. Include whole peeled veggies (such as potato and carrot) if you are of the omnivorous sort and add some secret herbs and spices. Cover pot and put back on coals and leave to cook for about 30-45mins. Serve with rice and maybe a pickle. Best eaten with fingers. Delicious!

Wohoo, Kayaking!

When I sat down and thought about it, April was the last time I had been to visit our herder family near Terelje. Last time I went to visit, things were just beginning to get green, how there are luscious forests, not to freezing rivers, flowers galore and lots of birds. With the new AYADs we camped over near the river and had a fantastic weekend.

On Saturday we got dropped at the bridge and then paddled our way to the camp site. It took us about 4 hours, the scenery was FANTASMIGORICAL. It was so beautiful! Within our first 20 minutes we had capsizes, lost paddles and people wedged under trees, but we somehow overcame all that to have a fantstic journey. Its hard to descibe in words how wonderful it was!

My kayaking partner, Bec from Donnybrooke, WA

Relaxing in the front while Bec does all the work!

Fellow kayakers, James and Margarite

Claire, Carl, Gans and Janice - just chillin' letting the current do the work

So long Will

The expat community of Ulaanbaatar is undergoing a rapid change. Summer is wrapping up for the year and as such, people are departing in droves, including some awesome friends. Friend and water and sanitation superstar (he talks about poo more than George) Will, has finished his Mongolian posting with ACF and is bound for Zimbabwe.

We celebrated in style with beers at Budwiser and dancing at Face. I couldn't resist the urge to get a tacky souvenir (insert Mongolian themed tie) unfortunately Will did not know how to tie one, so he got a crash course at the pub.

Will learns the art of tie tying

Hey presto, the tie instantly adds esteem and authority to any outfit

Steph, Will and Hayley

Hayley and Michael (Swiss) going crazy at FACE!

Tam cutting it up at FACE

Safe travels Will, 'til next time, maybe London, maybe Harare!

Gardens in the Gobi

Two days before we were depart, Gerry from the Disaster Management Team informed us we were going to the Gobi..... Okay, who am I to turn down a trip to one of Mongolia's most interesting landscapes?

The trip was to visit ADRA's 3 cooperative gardens. I was going to take footage and interview some beneficiaries. Tam was also coming and she was going to to an Environmental assessment of the 3 gardens. Our new intern, Cornelia from Germany would also be doing some interviews in relation to public health.

Jakub, the project leader from ADRA Czech was our guide and constant source of entertainment and lively anecdotes. Byrma was our ADRA Mongolia employee that also managed the gardens. We were also accompanied by Ullzie, our translator and Nimka our very cute driver.

On the first day we drove 5 hours to Dalangajund where we had huushuur and then spent the afternoon at the cooperative garden. It was amazing to see so many plants growing in what is essentially a desert! We were given some tomato's and cucumbers to sample, they were so tasty. The greenhouses were alive with vegetables and the members were obviously proud of their crops.

The next morning we went to Sainshand where we again visited a garden. This one was only established this year and looked like nothing in comparison to yesterdays garden, so obviously a lot can be done/ achieved in 1 year. We bought some produce and talked to the members. We were also there during a bit of a wind storm and we soon realised why they often had to replant gardens, sometimes as many as 3 times. The wind is relentless and whips up everything in its path. The gardens have planted wind breaks, but it will take some time before they are effective.

On the third day we drove to Erdene where we visited the 3rd garden. This garden was perhaps the most developed. We herd from the members that these local gardens meant that people in the gobi were for the first time eating Mongolian fruits and vegetables! One co-op member said he no longer had stomach problems because he had more of a balanced diet. Also the profit from last year, selling excess produce to the community meant that he was able to buy a small house for his family. Across the 3 gardens most of the members were unemployed before they were chosen to be a part of the program. Now they all have gainful employment, they said they have more friends and they want to learn more about how to grow vegetables, so they can become 'experts' at growing. They also have big plans for developing a restaurant that can serve healthy food.

It was pretty powerful to meet these beneficiaries and hear their stories and see that what is being done is actually changing peoples lives. And it also showed me the importance of monitoring trips. Nothing beats face-to-face communication and so many ideas and problems can be sorted out over a cup of sui-tei-tse (milky tea).

Statue in Sainshand of someone offering a blue khadag

Members of the Dalanjargaland cooperative transplanting seedlings

Stopping for a cuppa

Byrma talks veggies with some members of the Erdene cooperative (Byrma is holding a huge bunch of dill that the Erdene members gave to us to give to the Dalanjagaland garden so they could do some pickling)

I'm pretty sure this tractor is grinning evilly at me!

On the way back from Erdene we stopped at the Energy Centre. A Buddhist site that is supposed to energise you! There are a number of rituals you are supposed to do including circling everything clockwise. There were a group of Mongolians getting into the spirit of things, literally. There were the vodka offerings to the gods, but I think it turned out to be one for the gods and two for me!

You are supposed to lay on the ground to absorb the energy. The more contact you make with the earth, the better. Some Mongolians were taking this a bit far, and taking off a bit too much clothing in order to come in contact with the earth.

Also, apparently if you call your friend on your mobile whilst there, they too become energised via the phone!

Nimka, Byrma, Ullzie and Connie at the Energy Centre

Soaking up the energy

Stupas surrounding the Energy Centre

Connie at an ovoo, these need to be circled 3 times, clockwise

The Gobi

More Gobi

One of the things I love about Mongolia, is that the drivers you hire that take you everywhere around this country, always get in on everything. When I think driver I think man in suit in hat that patiently waits at the door for you to return. In Mongolia our drivers have: Helped in the ADRA food distribution, helped in the vegetable gardens, talked agriculture with co-op members, come to shaman ceremonies, gone horse-riding, occupied the kids of the families we were visiting, drank lots of milky tea, taken naps in gers, participated in our drinking games and just generally hung out with us! Of course, they only do this once the car has been cleaned inside and out!!!

Our last night in the Gobi was spent doing Karaoke, but of course! Unfortunately this was the only thing our drive, Nimka didn't participate in, despite speaking fluent Korean and half of the song book was Korean songs!!! There was no private room this time, karaoke was done in the main bar.

Mid-way through the night, an older man approached our table and informed us he was leaving, but he wanted to thank our table for singing, it had made for an enjoyable evening! Classic!

Tam and Ullzie

Connie and Tam belt out a tune

Yours truly busts some moves to ABBA

P.S. It was a very awesome trip, an not like any other country trip we have done to date. 1.) thanks to the co-ops we ate fresh vegetables every day! 2.) we stayed at a fancy schmanzy hotel in Sainshand so we got a hot shower two out of the 3 nights 4.) I consumed less chocolates and snacks and not even one cup of dirty coffee 5.) The good roads meant we could get up to 80kms and hour!!!

After a Hard Days Work

So after a stressful day of coordination and lugging 25kg bags of flour and rice, the Disaster Management team decided to unwind with some Karaoke! You know how shy I am, so I obviously had a horrible time... :)

Everyone came out of their shell's actually! I don't have many opportunities to hang out with colleagues in a social setting, so this was great fun for me. However, towards the end of the evening they kept choosing English songs and making me sing them all whilst they danced.... how do the professionals do an hour long set and not die? I was so parched at the end!

Hayley getting into the groove

Chimgee and Amar think Karaoke is tops!

Everyone getting in on the action (l to r: Chimgee, Badarch, Jak, Bymba, Hishgee, and Saraa)

Gerry puts a lot of thought into his song selection

Chimgee and Badarch sing together

All the crew!

ADRA lends a hand

Mid-July Mongolia was hit with lots of rain and consequently flash flooding. 25 people were killed and numerous people lost homes and positions. In an effort to address immediate food needs, ADRA Mongolia organised a food distribution to those critically impacted. This was my first time witnessing disaster relief and the team did a great job, its all about organisation, communication and planning... perhaps a future career for me!!!

The crowds lining up for food

ADRA Staff and Volunteers handing out food

The girls escaping from the heat (l to r: Byrma, Bymba, Chimgee and Ariuna)